Your kit arrives die-cut piece by piece to the size of your bike: nothing to measure, nothing to trim. The result comes down to preparation and technique, and this is the same one we use in our Martorell workshop.
Our vinyl is 485 μm, far thicker than a standard wrap. That is why it goes on dry, with no soapy water: water reduces initial tack and is the number one cause of edges lifting weeks later.
The fitting on video
Before you start
- Indoors, between 18 and 25 °C (65–77 °F), with no dust, no wind and no direct sun.
- Bike cold and dry, and the paint fully cured: if a panel was resprayed, wait 30 days.
- No rush. Set aside an afternoon. Almost every failure comes from rushing the cleaning.
Do not apply over textured or porous plastic, deep scratches, flaking paint, or surfaces treated with wax or silicone detailing sprays.
What you need
- Felt-edged squeegee
- Hair dryer or heat gun on low
- Isopropyl alcohol (70–90 %)
- Clean microfibre cloths
- Mild soap and water
- Masking tape
- Nitrile gloves
- Tools to remove panels and tail unit
What not to use
Soapy water, methylated or denatured spirit, solvents, acetone, ammonia-based glass cleaner, silicone detailing sprays, plastic squeegees without a felt edge (they scratch the vinyl) and heat guns on full power.
Optional but helpful: an infrared thermometer, a fine needle in case a bubble appears, and a second pair of hands for the large panels.
The installation, step by step
Remove what you can
Take off the side panels, tail unit and front fairing. With a loose panel you reach the entire outline and the adhesive lasts far longer.
More detail
If you are not comfortable removing panels, the kit can go on with everything in place: the result is still good, but you need to be more careful around edges next to bolts and seams.
Keep the fasteners in labelled bags, grouped by panel. It saves you the worst part of reassembly.
Wash, dry and degrease
Water and mild soap, dry fully with microfibre, then one pass of isopropyl alcohol. From here on, gloves on and no bare fingers on the panel.
This is the step most people skip and the one that ruins the most installations.
More detail
When washing, work into the edges, the recesses and the tank knee area, where grease builds up. Clear the water from seams and bolts too: it must be completely dry.
Apply the alcohol one pass per area and wipe dry immediately with a second clean cloth. If the bike has ever been waxed or treated with silicone spray, go over it twice: silicone is invisible and vinyl will not bond to it.
Dry-fit before you peel
Identify each piece and hold it in place with the backing still on to see how it sits. Mark the position with two tabs of masking tape.
More detail
Kits are symmetrical in many areas, so it is worth being certain what goes where before peeling anything: left and right tank panels, side covers, front, tail.
Start with the smallest, simplest piece — a side cover — and leave the tank until you have the feel for it.
Set the hinge
With the piece in position, run a strip of masking tape across its middle. Fold one half back over that hinge, peel the backing off that half only and cut it away.
More detail
The tape keeps the vinyl aligned while you work: it is what stops you ending up with the piece crooked. On large panels such as the tank, run the hinge vertically and do one side at a time.
Work from the centre out
Lower the exposed half slowly and press with the squeegee from the hinge towards the edge, in overlapping strokes. The vinyl should settle ahead of the squeegee, never drop all at once.
More detail
That way the air escapes on its own instead of being trapped. When that half is done, remove the tape, peel the other half and repeat towards the opposite side.
Keep the squeegee at roughly 45°. If you feel it marking the exposed vinyl, slip a microfibre cloth between the blade and the graphic.
Curves and recesses with heat
Warm it with the dryer kept constantly moving, 15–20 cm away, until the film is pliable (50–60 °C / 120–140 °F), then set it down with the squeegee.
Never stretch the vinyl to make it fit. Tensioned film will try to return to its shape in the sun and lift the edge with it. Heat, guide and press — never pull.
More detail
If a wrinkle forms, do not flatten it. Lift the vinyl back to a point before the wrinkle, warm it lightly and lay it down again, redistributing the material. Our film can be lifted and repositioned within the first few minutes, provided the surface is clean.
Seal the edges
Go around the entire perimeter, heating the edge and pressing right afterwards with a finger or the tip of the squeegee. This separates an installation that lasts a year from one that lasts five.
More detail
On removed panels, wrap the edge 2–3 mm around the back wherever the die-cut allows. On panels left in place, press firmly against the surface and leave no point unbonded.
With an infrared thermometer: the edge should reach around 80 °C (175 °F) while sealing and never exceed 90 °C (195 °F).
Check, refit and let it cure
Look at the piece against the light for bubbles or loose edges, refit without over-torquing fasteners, and let it cure 24 to 48 hours indoors without washing the bike.
After fitting
No washing for the first 48 hours. Hand wash with mild soap for the first week. After that, normal use.
Long-term care
Pressure washer: at least 40 cm (16 in) away, wide spray pattern, never aimed directly at an edge or a cut line.
Products: mild soap, motorcycle shampoo and solvent-free cleaners. Avoid abrasive polishes, aggressive bug removers and anything containing acetone.
Drying: microfibre or air. Rotating brushes in automatic wash tunnels are the worst enemy of any vinyl.
Parking: in the shade whenever you can. Constant sun ages any graphic, however good the material.
If something goes wrong
There is a bubble
If it is small and recent, warm the area and push the air towards the nearest edge. If it will not move, pierce it with a fine needle at the least visible point, press the air out towards the hole and apply a little heat to seal.
A wrinkle has formed
Do not flatten or cut it. Lift the vinyl back to a point before the wrinkle, warm it gently to relax the material and lay it down again, spreading the tension with the squeegee from the centre outwards.
I applied the piece crooked
Within the first few minutes you can lift it slowly — pulling at a low angle, never straight up — and reposition it. A little heat helps it release, and wipe the surface with alcohol again before reapplying: any dust would show.
An edge lifted overnight
Almost always this means the degreasing was incomplete or the edge was never heat-sealed. Clean under the lifted edge with alcohol, let it dry, warm the vinyl until pliable and press firmly until it cools in position.
I have ruined a piece
Get in touch. We produce individual replacement pieces for any kit; we will quote you the price and lead time for that specific piece and model.
When it is better to let a professional do it
Fitting it yourself is entirely achievable and plenty of riders get excellent results. That said, there are cases where we will honestly tell you not to:
- It is your first installation and the kit is chrome or holographic: the least forgiving materials.
- Your bike has full fairings, with lots of compound curves and large panels.
- You have no enclosed, dust-free space at a stable temperature.
- The kit is fully custom and there is no margin to redo a piece.
Professional fitting at our workshop
We fit it for you in Martorell (Barcelona), with a 365-day guarantee on the result: no bubbles, no wrinkles, no lifting edges. From €95 depending on the vehicle.
See the installation service — you can also add it as an extra from any kit's product page.
FAQ
Do I need to remove the bike's original graphics?
No. Our kits go over the original paint or plastic. If your bike already carries another vinyl kit, it has to come off first and any adhesive residue must be cleaned away.
Can I apply it without removing the panels?
Yes, although the result is better and longer-lasting if you remove at least the side covers and the tail unit. With panels in place, pay particular attention to sealing the edges.
Will the vinyl damage the paint when removed?
On original paint in good condition, no: it comes off with heat, pulled slowly at a low angle. On resprayed paint or surfaces with poor adhesion there is a real risk and we cannot guarantee the outcome.
How long does the kit last once installed?
High-resistance 485 μm premium vinyl, built for impacts, scratches, sun, rain, mud and washing. Installed correctly and cared for, it lasts season after season. Every kit carries a 365-day guarantee.
Does this guide apply to quads and jet skis?
Yes. The dry method, the preparation and the edge sealing are identical. On a jet ski, take extra care with the edge seal and respect the full 48-hour cure before the first time in the water.
Questions before you start? Message us on WhatsApp at +34 614 016 384 or at carezwrap@gmail.com and we will advise you on your model. No kit yet? See the guide to choosing yours.